2005 François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoins Loire Vallley France. 14% alcohol. 100% Chenin Blanc. 750 cases. Chambers Street Wines. $25.99. Lloyd/Asimov bottle.
Pretty yellow color, clear hue, rich aromas of figs, apricots and citrus, hints of minerals, complex taste of fruit, spice, earth, minerals and ginger, medium mouth feel, long, complex finish with several notes, a "waxy" character from time to time, something like the aromas one gets from a scented candle. I'm not sure I really liked it very much -- perhaps an acquired taste. And the alcohol is really up there for my taste. 3*.
Regards, Bob
Notes:
Rabelais: It's a wine of taffeta, well woven and of good yarn. François Rabelais, Gargantua, about Vouvray from Touaine.
Official site: http://www.vins-vouvray.com/
François Chidaine: "Wine is born from the vine, not from artificial skills of re-creation in the winery. It is sufficient to start modestly by working the soil."
Polaner: In 2002, Chidaine acquired the vineyards of the prestigious Clos Baudoin estate in Vouvray, the only site in the Loire refered to as ‘Grand Cru’ which he rents from the Poniatowski family with the option to purchase when and if the owner decides to sell.
Montlouis is an appellation of 400 hectares located directly across the river from Vouvray. (Until it was granted AOC status in 1937, Montlouis wines were under the Vouvray appellation.) The soils in both places are quite similar: sandy clay on a base of tuffeau. Some say that a slightly higher percentage of sand and pebbles in the Montlouis soil makes the wines somewhat leaner than the wines of Vouvray. For us, this trait adds to the charm of Montlouis's sec wines, giving them a lively crispness on the palate and outstanding minerality.
François Chidaine has worked alongside his father Yves for many years, in two independent estates. He works his vines the old-fashioned way, but does not want any mention of organic viticulture on his bottles even though he is certified organic. He champions the Chenin Blanc grape and its ability to produce vibrant wines that age gracefully.
Chidaine's estate is divided into 8 distinct plots, with much of the vineyards between 40 and 80 years old. Clos de Breuil is Chidaine's sec, or dry, cuvée of Montlouis, while Clos Habert and Tuffeaux are demi-sec, or off-dry cuvées. A stunning Méthode Traditionnelle, or pétillant, is made with grapes from younger vines.
Chambers Street: François and Manuéla Chidaine, Montlouis. The Chidaines produce outstanding dry, demi-sec and sweet Chenin Blanc from parcels in Montlouis - their newest site, Les Bournais, makes a unique wine with aromas of red fruits and citrus. They are now the proud owners of the Clos Baudoin, one of the greatest sites in Vouvray.
Jancis Robinson: Great Wine Varieties Lecture: 1998 Château de Montfort Vouvray Loire Valley France. $12. Chenin Blanc is the grape of Vouvray in the Loire, and has moved to California and Suth American. When it is grown in hot climates, it does not have a strong flavor, very different from the Loire. One can't age those wines, but the Loire Chenin Blanc ages very well. It needs high acidity to age well. A wonderful match: aged Chenin Blanc and fish in a rich cream sauce. Waxy smells, like candle wax. [T3*.] Feb. 2000 in Boston.