WTN: Aside

2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana:
Still not fully integrated, this has some grainy tannin and a distinct milk-chocolate covered cherry note – but that is not to imply that it is unattractive as the tannins are sweet and the cherry tone isn’t. Some very nice complexity here and the weight of a Burgundy; this is a character driven wine that you won’t confuse with other Italian reds. Nerello Moscalese is an indigenous variety to Sicily and this one is soundly done. 14% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and about $30, full retail; I’d buy it again but look for a better price (they are out there).
(Aside: I have heard that Mt. Etna is the source of wines that are some of the most interesting currently being produced in Italy and I have to say, I think that’s entirely possible given the progress of this wine in my cellar and others I have had brief tastes of.)

2005 Grosset, Riesling Polish Hill:
With a salmon and rice salad I needed a dry, crisp white; this fit the bill. Stony and only somewhat closed (a bit of time in the glass helped a lot) but with a very clean, perfectly balanced, mouthwatering delivery that keeps it light on its feet, and, full flavors that are the essence of the variety. This is fine, albeit undeveloped, riesling. I don’t have enough experience with Clare Valley wines to say if it’s of its place but it doesn’t taste like Austria or Germany and the only Alsace maker it comes close to is Trimbach (which, IMO, isn’t a bad target to shoot at).
I suspect I’m too early to this but the screwcap closure makes me wonder if the maker has decided these are not for keeping. Don’t get me wrong; I love screwcaps – but I think twice when I see a producer screwcap a wine usually meant for extended aging – it makes me wonder if he thinks the wine would drink better younger.
13% alcohol, imported by Australian Premium Wine Collection and about $20 on sale; I’d buy it again.
(Aside: One of my favorite wines in the world is Clos St. Hune but the price is damnable, so I am always looking for something that comes close. After this bottle I won’t give up mortgaging my house to buy St. Hune but I also won’t be dismissing this bottling as just another pretender. ‘Pretty impressive for such a young wine (although, I have had other vintages of this that I thought less of.)

2005 Raymond Quenard, Mondeuse Chignin:
A lovely red Vin de Savoie; this is like the best cherry soda you ever had but bone dry; there’s a face powder element on the nose and palate and very light herb tones but this just screams red cherries; integrated, balanced, precise and pretty long with solid grip – still it maintains an almost weightless presence. ‘Really good with smoked Gouda. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17; I’d buy it again.
(Aside: Jimmy like!)

Best, Jim

Perhaps David Lole could give us some insight into Clare V rieslings?I too am a big fan but what do I compare against???

I suspect I’m too early to this but the screwcap closure makes me wonder if the maker has decided these are not for keeping. Don’t get me wrong; I love screwcaps – but I think twice when I see a producer screwcap a wine usually meant for extended aging – it makes me wonder if he thinks the wine would drink better younger.

I think you can stop thinking what you're thinking there, Jim. I know I can speak for Wakefield/Taylors, and believe I can speak for Geoffrey Grosset, and the other Clare Valley producers of note as well, when I say they have every faith that their wines will age slowly and gracefully under screwcap. They expect better aging than under cork. And they expect the wines, when aged under screwcap, to show far, far better, and more the way the winemaker intended them, than the wines ever could under cork.

Adam Eggins, the Wakefield winemaker, believes Riesling doesn't really start showing what it's worth until at least five years...and thinks most Rieslings should be aged for far, far longer. I'm sure Grosset feels much the same way.

Jim, I have some reservations about screwcaps and long-term aging as well, but am open to research results.

While in Australia this year, I spent several hours at Wakefield (called Taylors in OZ). Eggins took me through a very informative 24-bottle tasting, including trials using the same wines under screwcap and cork. The wines were solid across the board. Results were mixed however. I preferred some wines under screwcap, others under cork. The jury is still out for me.

The Clare Valley, deservedly, harbours an exalted reputation for producing some of Australia's finest Riesling and Grosset is perhaps the finest exponent of the marque.

Just about everybody makes a Riesling in the Clare and their quality usually belies their meagre price. Situated 120 kilometres north/north-east of Adelaide, the slightly elevated rolling country of the vineyards allows for warm days and cool nights producing a slow and even growing season, ideal for high quality Riesling production.

Jesuit priests first established vineyards here in 1851 and the Sevenhill winery, remarkably, still operates today under the same society.

Perhaps the single most important contributor to the success of Riesling in Clare was Leo Buring, Australia's foremost pioneer of the variety. I've drunk wine from this producer going back to the sixties and even with thirty years of bottle age, many of these living legends looked tight and fresh. Unfortunately, the modern versions of Clare Valley Riesling are, seemingly, picked riper and, for whatever reasons, seem not to possess the remarkable longevity of some of the old Buring's. Leo Buring exists only as a brand/label nowadays and although owned by the massive Foster's (ex Southcorp/Penfolds) Group, still produces top notch examples under the "Leonay" label (only made when vintage conditions are deemed suitable).

Stylistically, young Clare Riesling are generally quite austere, bone dry, reveal intense lime and floral notes (usually apple or orange blossoms) with a piercing minerality, developing toasty, honeyed bottle age characters as the wine matures, with natural crisp acidity the method to preserve the wine's freshness and equilibrium for the longer haul. Over time, the transition in Clare Riesling can be quite awesome and if the wine displays a tightness of structure when first purchased at release, wonderful cellaring prospects are virtually guaranteed. My rule of thumb is to drink/hold the better aging examples for ten to fifteen years. Regular monitoring is recommended to avoid the occasional vintage that doesn't make the grade.

One point I would like to clarify about the use of screw cap - a cellaring initiative largely instigated by the Clare Valley producer's quite some years ago to alleviate the horrors of cork taint and now becoming much more in vogue across the globe. Apart from some early teething problems with excessive use of sulphur causing a few reduction problems (hopefully as the winemaker's become better acquainted with this closure this problem should largely disappear), if you see a Clare Valley Riesling with a screw cap closure buy it with confidence if cellaring is desired.

I've enclosed a list below of most of the Clare producers - most have websites that will allow you to obtain more specific information on their wares and the region in general. I've asterisked the producer's whose Riesling I've tried and can generally recommend. More asterisks = better producer.

- Annie's Lane at Queltaller*
- Attunga Dry Land Vineyard
- Brian Barry Wines*
- Burra Creek Wines
- Cardinham Estate
- Claymore Wines
- Clos Clare*
- Crabtree Watervale Wines**
- Eldredge Wines
- Eyre Creek Wines
- Grosset Wines***
- Henry Hudson Wines
- Inghams Skilly Ridge
- Jeanneret Wines*
- Jim Barry Wines*
- Kilikanoon Wines*
- Kirrihill Estates
- Knappstein Wines*
- Leasingham Wines*
- Leo Buring* (Leonay***)
- Little Brampton Wines
- Macraw Creek Wines
- Mintaro Cellars
- Mitchell Wines*
- Mount Horrocks Wines**
- Mount Surmon Wines
- Neagles Rock Wines
- O'Leary Walker Wines*
- Olssens of Watervale
- Paulett Wines*
- Pearson Vineyards** (A Buckner special!)
- Penna Lane Wines
- Petuluma**
- Phoenix Estate
- Pikes Wines**
- Pycantha Hill
- Reilly's Wines
- Ryders Watervale Ridge Wines
- Sevenhill Cellars*
- Skillogalee Wines
- Stephen John Wines
- Stringy Brae Wines
- Tatehams Wines
- Taylors Wines*
- Tim Adams Wines*
- Tim Gramp Wines*
- The Wilson Vineyard**
- Thorogoods of Burra
- Wendouree Cellars

I'll put some asterisks on Pearson for you. His wines were a highlight of the trip. The Riesling is delicious. I brought back a case.

David, et al,
I appreciate the virtual tour and the confidence building exercise for screwcaps.
Thanks, Jim

I'll put some asterisks on Pearson for you. His wines were a highlight of the trip. The Riesling is delicious. I brought back a case.

Randy, I've done it for you!

Thanks David for your great post. For me, you hit the nail right on the head..how long to cellar? Guess buy 3 and figure it out over time!!
Your reply should be filed away by everyone here, thanks.

Randy, I've done it for you!

You're a gentleman and a scholar.

I'm adding my thanks to David for the information and listing of producers.