WTN: 2005 Babcock Reserve Chardonnay

[Jenise]

Strange wine. Pale yellow. Cheesey nose, apple and pear fruit, unpleasantly acidic. Doesn't smell or taste like a California wine, or even chardonnay for that matter.

What causes that cheesey nose? I've long thought it a consequence of overripeness, but this one doesn't have the color or flavors of overripeness.

I've come across an "off" aroma in Chards from this area that I associate with cheesiness, though I can't be sure if it's the same smell you are referring to here. I haven't had the wine.

Somewhere along the line I picked up the idea that it comes from extended time on the lees. Not sure if that's the case here but it's not a quality I'm fond of.

[Jenise]

Somewhere along the line I picked up the idea that it comes from extended time on the lees....it's not a quality I'm fond of.

I can understand why. It kind of obliterates the pretty things that a nose can have. I often encounter it in Kiwi and BC whites. Can't remember finding it in a California Chardonnay before.

Strange wine. Pale yellow. Cheesey nose, apple and pear fruit, unpleasantly acidic. Doesn't smell or taste like a California wine, or even chardonnay for that matter.

What causes that cheesey nose? I've long thought it a consequence of overripeness, but this one doesn't have the color or flavors of overripeness.

For me, the striking thing about the best Santa Rita Hills Chardonnays is precisely that they are very different from other Ca. Chardonnays; they are the closest thing we make to a Chablis or Meursault, and I like that. The acidity levels are so high that in some cases the wines have trouble going through malo. They can age very well; I've drunk Bryan Babcock's Estate Chardonnay when it's more than ten years old a number of times, with great pleasure.

I suspect that the 'cheesy' aroma is the combination of long lees aging and full malo. I don't associate it with over-ripeness.

Disclaimer: I distributed Babcock wines in Northern California for more than ten years, but stopped recently to focus on my Italian imports.

I guess the fact that it didn't taste like a CA chard was a positive for me but I do admit to drinking and eating with Bryan Babcock 15, 20 years ago before he had his winery. I probably am a little prejudiced.
I greatly admire people who can taste a wine made by a friend and be completely honest. I don't think I can.

[Jenise]

Oliver, I've met members of the Babcock family and have always had a soft spot in my heart for their wines, so I've had many in the past and they weren't cheesy like this. Didn't realize that about the acid levels in the area, that's something to know. I usually like acid, btw, this one just had that much extra.

All that aside, I agree with you about the quality of the chardonnays from this area. I've really liked them, Wes Hagen's in particular.

Jenise, didn't Bryan's parents have a restaurant in Seal Beach? It's been a long time. I think I remember eating there on one or two occasions.

[Jenise]

Yes, Walt's Wharf, just around the corner from Walter Babcock's dentist office. It's still the best restaurant in that town.