WTN: La terre parle

Aperitif:
2005 Gaetano D’Aquino, Frascati Superiore:
Bright, floral and citrusy with a musky tone on both the nose and palate, lightweight, mouth-watering and easy to drink. 12% alcohol, imported by D’Aquino Italian Importing and about $5; I’d buy it again.
A nice aperitif that freshens the palate and does not linger.

Sautéed rice pasta with edamame beans, salmon, feta and onions:
2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone-Jolly:
Clean strawberry, raspberry and spice tones with a mineral underpinning; focused but still fleshy in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, good balance and acidity, bone-dry and nice sustain. 13.2% alcohol and about $17; I bought a lot.
On Steve’s suggestion, I chose this with the meal. It was a very good match with flavors that did not overwhelm but did compliment those in the dish and a freshness that cleansed the palate after each sip. Again, a very versatile wine and, IMO, a must for any cellar.

Fresh basil spring rolls and pad Thai:
2005 Dom. du Clos Naudin (Foreau), Vouvray Sec:
The purest chenin; crystalline in delivery, focused, transparent, structured, balanced; lemon, honey, wax, herb tea and mineral on the nose; the same on the palate, savory, lyrical, prismatic flavors - moving and changing; immensely complex yet never anything but totally integrated; succulent and endless. A tribute to nature’s intricate perfection and to a winemaker who understood what he had been given and ‘didn’t screw it up.’ 13.2% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29 on release; I regret not buying more.
Chosen in hopes that I too, would not screw up the pairing. I had tasted this wine in January and thought it too angular and young. I vowed to let it age and yet, when I saw this in the wine cooler tonight, I could not help myself. Thankfully, it was wonderful with the food; amazingly agile and racy with the spring rolls, more structured and potent with the pad Thai.
(Aside: Over the span of several decades, I have tried to build a diverse cellar based on producers that, IMO, pay attention to detail, are intuitive rather than formulaic and, most importantly, let the earth speak. Giacosa, Chevillon, Hirtzberger, Overnoy, Allemand, Edmunds St. John, John Thomas, Vincent Dauvissat; so many others that are, in their own way, unique. Not a cellar that would garner the big bids at auction, but one that pleases me (as Damon Runyon might say) ‘no little and quite some.’ The Foreau brothers are of this ilk and this wine is about as good as anyone ever needs to bottle. No wonder I couldn’t resist – they should put locks on the closure.)

Best, Jim

Having seen your note on the Foreau Vouyray sec 2005, I couldn't resist opening one of my bottles tonight. I fully agree with your note; the wine is quite delicious, superbly focused and much more expressive than the widely admired 2002 at a similar stage. However I feel that it is keeping a lot in reserve and that it will be even more complex and expressive in 10 years or so if I can keep my hands off the bottles; indeed I think that it is a potential great. Note, however, that Foreau's Vouvrays have a track record of going into quite extended closed phases after about one year in bottle so resisting the temptation may not be too hard.

Note, however, that Foreau's Vouvrays have a track record of going into quite extended closed phases after about one year in bottle so resisting the temptation may not be too hard.

Locking closures unneccessary, then?
Best, Jim

Jim,
Like you I look at producers, plus importers. Interesting TNs. I buy Steve's different syrahs and rousanne but have stayed away from the wines with strange names (the Shadow an excetion) but guess I am wrong. Strange names remind me of bad experiences I have had in the past with Bonny Doon stuff.

You really liked Foreau sec and I buy Huet sec every year. What is your opinion of these two wines as they relate to each other.

Walt

You really liked Foreau sec and I buy Huet sec every year. What is your opinion of these two wines as they relate to each other.

Walt

I haven't tasted the 05s but generally Huet's dry wines seem "cleaner" and more precise than the Foreau secs, which seem to have a more rustic (debatable term) edge. Not sure what vinification practices lead to that difference.

More skin contact for Foreau?

FWIW in my experience Foreau's wines can be a bit more cranky than those of Huet, but generally speaking the slight stylistic differerences only add to our appreciation of Vouvray and both are must-buys

I haven't tasted the 05s but generally Huet's dry wines seem "cleaner" and more precise than the Foreau secs, which seem to have a more rustic (debatable term) edge. Not sure what vinification practices lead to that difference.

More skin contact for Foreau?

FWIW in my experience Foreau's wines can be a bit more cranky than those of Huet, but generally speaking the slight stylistic differerences only add to our appreciation of Vouvray and both are must-buys

Walt and Rahsaan,
While I won't use the same words as Rahsaan, I do believe that his explanation is pretty accurate as to differences. And Foreau's wines do have bad moments - I can't remember a Huet that had a really bad moment.
But both are exceptional and in 2005, I think Foreau hit the bullseye.
Best, Jim

Jim - have you tried a 2005 Foreau Demi Sec?

Here is a loose translation of what Le Classement 2007 says about Foreau and Huet with specific reference to 2005 but applicable, in my view, to all vintages.

"There is a contest at the summit with Domaine Huet. Foreau's wines are more complete, less refined and extrovert ("déployés" in French, difficult to translate), still firm in the bitter register, with a chalky and mineral finish and a phenomenal ageing potential."

I think that we are all more or less on the same page about this comparison. I would not think either lack of precision or rusticity are quite the right words to apply to Foreau but I can see what Rahsaan is getting at.

As to Huet's wines never having bad patches, there is a note of mine in the old archive from 2002 when I opened, I think, Haut-Lieu 1995 sec and found it very ungracious. I have not opened any more since then but should perhaps now take a look.

I think that we are all more or less on the same page about this comparison..

I agree.

My words weren't the best I admit.

But at least we all agree they are both worth drinking..

Jim your taste in food and your wine notes are world class. On the other hand, your French...

I just assumed that he's boycotting the LaLas and expressing displeasure of them in a subtle way.

-O-

Jim your taste in food and your wine notes are world class. On the other hand, your French...

I just assumed that he's boycotting the LaLas and expressing displeasure of them in a subtle way.

-O-

Randy and Otto,
Someone corrected my title elsewhere; after all, its Mother Earth. I will learn.

Can one edit a title on this board?
Well, I'll be; you can!
Best, Jim