What's Cooking (Take Four)

So red meat it is. Dinner tonight: Green chile Cheeseburger!

I had a grilled ribeye that was so marbled it looked like Wagyu. Also a salad and a bottle of wine with the kiddo. We ended the night with a dram each of Found North Batch 006, killing a now unattainable bottle.

[Jenise]

Sounds wonderful, Robert.

My cheeseburger was dope! Ended up making a double, smashburger style because I had so much meat. I asked the butcher--a white guy about my age--for "point four of the 90%". He pulls out a big wad, drops it on the scale and gives me the "is that enough" look. He had .85. No, I shook my head, reiterating "point FOUR." He took some away, and now it was .6. Gave me the same look. REALLY? NO! "POINT FOUR" I practically screamed. He took more away. It was now .47.

So I took it. It was like no matter what I said he was going to follow unwritten orders to sell me more than I asked for. Idiot! But oh I loved my burger. I opened a 2009 Bordeaux to go with it.

Sounds wonderful, Robert.

My cheeseburger was dope! Ended up making a double, smashburger style because I had so much meat. I asked the butcher--a white guy about my age--for "point four of the 90%". He pulls out a big wad, drops it on the scale and gives me the "is that enough" look. He had .85. No, I shook my head, reiterating "point FOUR." He took some away, and now it was .6. Gave me the same look. REALLY? NO! "POINT FOUR" I practically screamed. He took more away. It was now .47.

So I took it. It was like no matter what I said he was going to follow unwritten orders to sell me more than I asked for. Idiot! But oh I loved my burger. I opened a 2009 Bordeaux to go with it.

2009 was such a stellar year for Bordeaux! That's awesome you still have some. My bottle was a $12 Charles & Charles Cab Sauv and was delicious. I'm gonna miss that Batch 006, though. Should've bought more when I had the chance.

And skate it was. Served piccata with limas and artichokes, mash on the side. And several glasses of picpoul.

Jeff, last week my fishmonger had some skate , but it still had the skin. While I love most fish skin, I have always tried to buy skinless skate. He said actually just cook with skin on , it's actually tasty. Now, maybe it was because these were comparatively small/young skate wings, but have you ever cooked skate skin on? I passed but am curious.

I'm so sorry it was at County Line. Though, if it was a while ago it may have been when they had decent barbecue. That place is terrible now.

It was back in 1986 or thereabouts. Apparently the place I went to isn't there anymore although the name lives on at a different location.

-Paul W.

I'm so sorry it was at County Line. Though, if it was a while ago it may have been when they had decent barbecue. That place is terrible now.

It was back in 1986 or thereabouts. Apparently the place I went to isn't there anymore although the name lives on at a different location.

-Paul W.

Yeah, I moved here in 1989 and the place was out by the river (still kind of is, but in a different spot) and actually pretty decent. But man, their barbecue is just horrible now. They get a lot of unfortunate tourists and large parties but now that the Golden Age of Barbecue has descended on the state there are simply so many better options, even mediocre options.

Jeff, last week my fishmonger had some skate , but it still had the skin. While I love most fish skin, I have always tried to buy skinless skate. He said actually just cook with skin on , it's actually tasty. Now, maybe it was because these were comparatively small/young skate wings, but have you ever cooked skate skin on? I passed but am curious.

Nope. My monger takes the skin off. I would expect it to be kinda rubbery, and not nice.

It's heirloom tomato season here in New Hampshire! Tonight I'm looking forward to Brandywine tomato with balsamic vinegar and EVOO, alongside grilled chicken thigh with a West Indian-style rub.

-Paul W.

Maybe red meat on Friday?

And so it was. Slightly splurgy, even. I got a club steak -- in this case, a boneless ribeye -- and seared it up in a hot cast iron pan. Charred broccolini with butter and garlic on the side, and also a dish of spaghetti in a cream sauce with morels and porcini. So good.

WIne to go with is Ronchi di Cialla 2018 Schioppetino, which is herby and acidic, good for a Loirehead like me, although the rich food may have been better-served by a Burgundy. So it goes.

[Jenise]

Funny thing happened last night. Yesterday morning I sent a brief note to a friend asking if she was available for dinner on Tuesday the 26th. She wrote back yes, what time. Five-ish I said. So there I was in the driveway later the same day right about five o'clock saying goodbye to the plumber who had been here all afternoon when she rolled in. She got out of her car and handed me some hydrangeas--a hostess gift. Well...okay! I know she has some memory lapses related to a stroke she had a few years ago, so I decided right there I'd rather feed her than make her feel bad and expose the mistake.

I didn't have enough bacon to stretch the BLT I'd planned for my own dinner. So I served up two little bowls of kosher cucumbers to and two glasses of Felsina sparkling sangio rose, and then made a dish I've been wanting for weeks--pasta with fresh tomatoes, garlic and basil, seeing as I'm luxuriating in peak tomato season here. I know the classic noodle for that is vermicelli but I prefer the flat, wider surface of linguine for things to stick to. With that we enjoyed a terrific Frank Cornelissen Susucaru Nerello Mascalese, which I pulled without realizing that my friend is half Sicilian--she was so delighted!) A great dinner totally on the fly.

Very kind of you, Jenise, and as usual, very creative. Nice dinner.

Looking through a cookbook last week, I came across a chicken recipe from Katie Lees' family member that has been very kid-friendly and a family favorite. It is a mix of Thousand Island dressing and BBQ sauce with her addition of a good red wine vinegar, fresh garlic, and olive oil. I cut up a chicken and generously coated the chicken pieces to marinate until this evening. I will be adding a few carrots to roast in the resulting juices. In addition, I am making a Farro Salad with fresh corn and cherry tomatoes. Ingredients include sweet onion, fresh garlic, green onions, fresh chives, sweet basil or parsley, salt, and black pepper. This will be mixed with a Lisbon lemon and fresh thyme vinaigrette. Served at room temperature. The marinade was very tasty with a nice tang.

I didn't have enough bacon to stretch the BLT I'd planned for my own dinner.

I thought I was the only one who had BLTs for dinner.

Tonight I'm making one of the very first dishes I ever cooked--Cantonese stir-fried beef and snow peas.

-Paul W.

I thought I was the only one who had BLTs for dinner.

My dad used to make BLTs for dinner during the summer. Of late, I take the easy route and have them at lunch at my local diner... no pans to wash up.

Lunch today: I have access to "toaster size" naan, which I typically give a quick roast over the hob rather than actually put in the toaster. Covered those with slices from a huge Solar Flare tomato, a sprinkle of thyme and salt, and served open face. Perfect light summer lunch.

Nice story, and a nice meal Jenise. You were kind to not bring up the mistake! I doubt I would have been able to not mention.

[Jenise]

Thanks, Dale. This friend is too young to be having strokes of the usual kind, but hers stem from a congenital arterial issue, the kind you don't know you have until you have the first stroke. She's single, a former landscape architect and horse breeder/trainer (for show-jumping). Getting to know her has been one of few highlights of widowhood. Anyway, I can handle the occasional memory lapse--she's doing very well considering her health challenges.

[Jenise]

So I just made: tomato aspic! I bought a silicone ring mold off Amazon (six bucks, no loss if I decided against using it), but that will be the only thing about what I made that's traditional. Essentially, I made a spicy gazpacho: fresh tomatoes, fresh red bell pepper, two guajillo chiles, onion, vinegar, and the roasted tomatrillo salsa left over from the terrine dinner. I'll serve that on a salad with an oregano vinaigrette. Nothing Georgia-ish about it, but it's nonetheless an authentic tomato jello (and just about the only way I can imagine myself eating one).

That sounds really interesting. Let us know how it is, and how it is eating a savory Jell-o.

I was also thinking odd tomato thoughts. Suppose I took a container of salsa, added some paprika, and cooked it until dark and somewhat sludgy. Does that make it sofrito?

[Jenise]

Jeff, will do! I'm taking it to my book club tonight, if you didn't see my other post about how the book we just read about a small town in Georgia mentioned tomato aspic numerous times and my BIL talks about it (ring mold, center filled with mayo) as one of the horrors of his Georgian childhood. Mine will be sans mayo, of course. Though texturally it might be a challenge for the ladies since, really, who does that, the flavor's definitely going to be a million times better than just tomato juice + gelatine, and it will be on a bed of lettuces with a vinaigrette.

Suppose I took a container of salsa, added some paprika, and cooked it until dark and somewhat sludgy. Does that make it sofrito?

Uh, I'm a 'no' on that!

I made a large amount of gazpacho yesterday for lunches this week, my best one ever. A bottle of Clamato juice with a cup of V8 Veggie juice. Then added a good red wine vinegar, fresh garlic, and cilantro lime sriracha from Lee Kum Kee. Fresh thyme, parsley, and I had a small amount of Larrupin red sauce made from a great restaurant in Humboldt County, which sits above the ocean. I tossed that in, as well. I am finally reducing my pantry and fridge inventory. With just one to cook for, I have sadly had to toss out spoiled product. Not a fan of wasting food...tough. Anyway, the soup contains shrimp, celery, celery leaves, green onion, sweet onion, red bell pepper, jalapeno pepper, cucumber, avocado, and tomatoes. It sits for a day to allow the flavors to bloom. Can't wait for lunch today.

I'm making bread today; 4 large loaves mix of seeded bread flour and wholemeal, also some OO flour for a pizza.

The bread has risen, been punched down and is now in their tins for the second rise.

Will be making pizza for dinner tonight after the loaves have baked, and enjoying my last bottle of Kaapzicht Estate Chenin Blanc 2023 with it.

[Jenise]

Tonight we're celebrating Taylor and Travis' engagement. I'm serving:

Spicy crab stuffed wonton-skin tartlets (2007 Taittinger Comtes)

Salad of white truffle marinated shrimp on steamed leeks over an emulsified parsley vinaigette (a 2016 pouilly fume)

Deconstructed beef wellington: thick slices of roasted Flannery prime filet mignon on chive-flecked puff pastry pillows with mushroom and tarragon butter sauce (2004 Pichon Baron and 2004 Pontet Canet)

And a guest is bringing white cake with lemon filling

[Jenise]

Ribs tonight. A friend who has gone thru some really difficult times of late (two types of breast cancer) called yesterday to ask my advice about a place to go for ribs because it's what her husband wants for a birthday dinner. I had no recommendation for that particular item but said, shucks, why don't you come here for dinner, I'll make Denny some ribs! I've invited two other couples. So, slow roasted St. Louis style ribs with a tangy Carolina barbecue sauce, salted peanuts in the shell, curried artichoke/rice/pea salad, cabbage/bacon/nectarine salad, and cornbread.