The history of English Muffins

[Jenise]

Over breakfast this morning, Bob and I got to talking about English Muffins. He has always supposed that English Muffins are actually English in origin. I wasn't so sure: I lived in England for a year in the 70's and recall nothing like what we in America call English Muffins.

So I came back to my computer figuring a quick google would put the Muffin squarely in its place. Not quite the case, but I thought I'd share what I found.

That is, I found this:

Originally eaten by the "downstairs" servants in England's Victorian society, the English muffin surfaced and rose to prominence in Great Britain when members of all classes of society became aware of its goodness. The family baker made English muffins from leftover bread and biscuit dough scraps and mashed potatoes. He fried the batter on a hot griddle, creating light, crusty muffins for the servants. Once members of the "upstairs" family tasted these rich muffins, they began to request them for themselves - especially during teatime.

As a result of the English muffin becoming the "most fancied" bread on the isle, English muffin factories sprang up all over England. Muffin men could be heard in the streets selling their muffins from wooden trays slung around their necks. For teatime in private homes and clubs, the English muffins would be split and toasted over an open fire and served in a covered sterling dish alongside tea. The prominence of the muffin men in English society was evident when "Oh, do you know the muffin man" became a popular children's nursery rhyme. The popularity of the English muffin reached its zenith in Great Britain during the years preceding World War I.

Not sure who wrote it originally, but it's been copied word for word all over the net without attribution or variance in wording, so god knows how true it is.

Other reports suggest that it's origins are Welsh and date back to the 10th century, back to a muffin cooked on hot rocks called bara maen. And that may have become the crumpet and the crumpet itself may have been what one Samuel Bath Thomas had in mind to copy when, after arriving in America in 1875, he opened a shop in Manhattan in 1880 to sell this "muffin" based loosely on one he remembered his mother making. It's his name that has the ubiquitous Thomas's brand sold in American supermarkets today and which, I read, are now exported to England where they're quite popular.

And in fact, with a tweak here and there to clarify exactly what 'muffin' refers to, all of the above could be true. Or none of it.

Interesting! I'm glad Crumpets were mentioned, as it reminded me we have not had those in a long time. I love the super market crumpets, can't recall who makes them right now, but we used to have them all the time. Since bagels are now so much better than just a few years ago, Gene likes those and the home made muffins I make for him, and store in the freezer. I'm going to put those on my list right now. I loved the way the butter or jam goes into the holes...makes for some yummy bites.

I grew up believing crumpets were the ultimate treat for cold wet wintry days. My mother was fond of crumpets, and passed her enthusiasm on to the kids. When she was feeling very mellow about life, we were allowed to toast the crumpets on the end of a toasting fork over the open fire in the sitting room. I think crumpets were the first product that made me aware of brands and brand reputations ... although we didn't use those terms in those days. Hardings made the best crumpets. (I think it was more likely that Hardings were the only crumpets available at our local grocery shop, but Mum used to look for Hardings when there was a choice, and tut-tut when she had to get some other brand instead.)

Australian crumpets are the ones that look like this, and are made with yeast. (Some are square, a concession to toasters.)

Buttered_crumpet2.jpg

Later, when I married into a Scottish family, I discovered that Scottish crumpets are a different thing altogether. They are like chunky pancakes, made with flour, egg, milk, sugar, salt, and maybe bicarb/cream of tartar. Personally, I don't bother with the bicarb/cream of tartar - I think they have an adverse effect on the flavour, and aren't necessary. The batter seems to achieve the necessary bubble-holes without it. The batter is made a little thicker than for pancakes, and the cakes are poured out to be about five inches across. The bottom cooks toasty-brown, big holes appear in the top. You turn them and cook the "holey" side very lightly. Like the yeasty crumpets above, you eat them with a lot of butter.

I like both types of crumpet, but they are very different beasts.

[Jenise]

I grew up believing crumpets were the ultimate treat for cold wet wintry days. My mother was fond of crumpets, and passed her enthusiasm on to the kids. When she was feeling very mellow about life, we were allowed to toast the crumpets on the end of a toasting fork over the open fire in the sitting room....I like both types of crumpet, but they are very different beasts.

Matilda, you paint a sweet picture. I like that. But you know what, there is some kind of product here in our markets that's called Australian Toaster -----'s, I can't think of the name, but I've seen them without giving them another thought. Haven't bought them, that is, and never actually considered that they might be something authentically Australian. But now you have me wondering. I'll look closer next time I'm at the store.

[Jenise]

Australian Toaster Biscuits, that's what they're called.

Searching for that, I came across this recipe (RCP) for making one's own:

Australian Toaster Biscuits (crumpets)

Makes 10.

Ingredients
1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 teaspoon white sugar
1 cup water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)
3 cups unbleached flour
2 teaspoons salt
3/4 cup milk (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup cornmeal

Directions
1In a small bowl, dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water.
2Let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes.
3To make crumpet rings, cut aluminum foil into 7x12 inch pieces.
4Fold in half lengthwise and then in thirds, making 6 layers.
5Form into a 3 1/2 inch diameter circle and tape shut on the outside.
6In a large bowl, mix together flour and salt.
7Stir in the milk, oil and yeast mixture.
8Beat well until smooth.
9Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 60 minutes.
10Lightly grease or butter the inside of the crumpet rings and dip the rings in cornmeal.
11Heat a griddle or frying pan over medium low heat.
12Sprinkle cornmeal on the griddle and place the rings on the griddle.
13Deflate the batter by stirring.
14Pour 1/4 cup of batter into each ring.
15Cook slowly for about 10 minutes or until pale brown.
16Carefully remove the rings and turn the bisquits over.
17Bake on second side about 8 minutes or until light brown.
18Transfer to a rack to cool.

One hates to bust myths (well…actually in my case I love it) but it would actually be more realistic to refer to what most Americans think of as "English Muffins" as "Mexican Muffins".

The information given above by Jenise is about as accurate as one can be but refers not to the muffins in question but to muffins that happen to be English – that is to say, made in England and for the most part consumed by English men and women. The muffin we know today as the English muffin was actually first devised by one of the pastry chefs working at Delmonico's restaurant in New York City in the 1860s. The muffin was originally designed to be part of a mixed bread basket but when the restaurant created Eggs Benedict it was realized that it had an even better goal in life.

The English muffin only gained real popularity during the 1940's when Arnold's Bakery started to package them in packages of 4 and 6 (cardboard boxes enclosed by cellophane) , already pre-slit so that they could be easily popped into electric toasters.

As an interesting note, Thomas' is now wholly owned by Bimbo Bakeries. Now get your minds out of the gutter for Bimbo is simply the name of the family in Mexico that founded and largelly owns Grupo Bimbo, an international company that owns not only Bimbo Bakers and Arnold's but some 70 other brands of baked and baking goods.

With regard to culinary accuracy, although the muffins in question are not truly English, the Canadian bacon used is not really bacon, and the sauce that is used did not originate in Holland, all agree that without English muffins, Hollandaise sauce and Canadian bacon there would be no real eggs Benedict. And let us not please forget the humble eggs so necessary to or the halved black olive that sits on top of this delicious dish.

Best
Rogov

And let us not please forget the humble eggs so necessary to or the halved black olive that sits on top of this delicious dish.

May I bust a myth for you, Rogov? Today, it is a half an olive, but, at Delmonico's, a first-tier restaurant in its day, and for Ms. Benedict, a first-tier customer in hers, that decor was originally a slice of black truffle.

All I can add is that, when my kids were younger, we'd visit an indoor Lacrosse field located just outside of Frederick, Maryland. It was just down the street from the mid-Atlantic Thomas's English Muffin plant and, next to watching my kids play, the smell of baking muffins was intoxicating.

Interesting.

I asked my husband a few years back if they had "English Muffins", and he said they do, but they are just called muffins, and that what we call muffins over here in the US don't really exist in England (or at least they didn't back 12 yrs ago when he came over here).

All I can add is that, when my kids were younger, we'd visit an indoor Lacrosse field located just outside of Frederick, Maryland. It was just down the street from the mid-Atlantic Thomas's English Muffin plant and, next to watching my kids play, the smell of baking muffins was intoxicating.

Jon, you sure those aromas weren't the biological warfare agents emanating from Fort Dietrick?

If the story that Jenise quotes is true, that leads to the question: If the English muffin was so popular, and at its peak of popularity just before World War I, what happened after that, such that by 1970 this former icon had disappeared completely from British popular culture, except for the mention in a nursery rhyme?

BTW, I enjoyed Australian crumpets, exactly like the ones in Matilda's photo, for breakfast every morning last week when I was doing southern sky observing in Coonabarabran, New South Wales.

-Paul W.

And let us not please forget the humble eggs so necessary to or the halved black olive that sits on top of this delicious dish.

May I bust a myth for you, Rogov? Today, it is a half an olive, but, at Delmonico's, a first-tier restaurant in its day, and for Ms. Benedict, a first-tier customer in hers, that decor was originally a slice of black truffle.

Jeff, Hi...

Ye be quite right. And I'll go along in that a slice of black truffle would be better than half a black olive.

Best
Rogov

Jenise wrote:
Australian Toaster Biscuits, that's what they're called.

Well, you learn something new every day. I've never heard of Australian Toaster Biscuits!

A google search turned up some information, including an advertisement on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IMub9essVA

Very cute kids. Toaster biscuits are obviously not the same as what we call crumpets - crumpets are rubbery (that's what's good about them!!!) but the shot of the kid poking a hole in the toaster biscuit seems to suggest something soft and fluffy. Australian Toaster Biscuits must be one of those things made for the American market but never seen in Australia. (Like Yellowtail used to be ) A clue to this is the use of the word "biscuit" for something that is soft and doughy. In Australia, a biscuit is something crunchy. An Australian friend of mine said once, of US cookery, "Cookies and crackers are biscuits but biscuits are scones."

biscuits.jpg

scones_.jpg

I've become very fond of ANZAC biscuits.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

If the story that Jenise quotes is true, that leads to the question: If the English muffin was so popular, and at its peak of popularity just before World War I, what happened after that, such that by 1970 this former icon had disappeared completely from British popular culture, except for the mention in a nursery rhyme?

BTW, I enjoyed Australian crumpets, exactly like the ones in Matilda's photo, for breakfast every morning last week when I was doing southern sky observing in Coonabarabran, New South Wales.

-Paul W.

You were there? How cool. Did you take pictures?

All I can add is that, when my kids were younger, we'd visit an indoor Lacrosse field located just outside of Frederick, Maryland. It was just down the street from the mid-Atlantic Thomas's English Muffin plant and, next to watching my kids play, the smell of baking muffins was intoxicating.

Jon, you sure those aromas weren't the biological warfare agents emanating from Fort Dietrick?

Well, now that you mention it, they are pretty close to each other.......?

[Jenise]

Matilda,

No surprise that something called 'Australian' here turns out not to be Australian at all--I think most of us here presume these names are have more to do with marketing than reality.

But I was surprised looking at that commercial, I was certain that the product I'd seen in stores was more crumpet like, not that pillowy thing.

Re biscuits and scones, I lived in England so am aware of the different interpretations, but the difference to Americans in biscuits vs. scones needs some clarification. But for the sugar content, the ingredients in a type of biscuit we like (there are many, often referred to by the levening, as in 'baking powder biscuit' and 'baking soda biscuit' or forming method 'drop biscuit') is nearly identical to a scone, but to us a biscuit is always savory/salty and a scone is always sweet. The words aren't interchangeable, and looks-wise, scones will nearly always be cut in large triangles where biscuits will be round. Btw, scones are actually something we rarely saw here in the U.S. before the Starbucks coffeehouse movement came along and created a need for a healthier alternative to donuts.

Btw, scones are actually something we rarely saw here in the U.S. before the Starbucks coffeehouse movement came along and created a need for a healthier alternative to donuts.

One scone: http://caloriecount.about.com/calories-starbucks-coffee-blueberry-scone-i57011
One doughnut: http://www.peertrainer.com/DFcaloriecounterB.aspx?id=8278

Not better.

[Jenise]

Btw, scones are actually something we rarely saw here in the U.S. before the Starbucks coffeehouse movement came along and created a need for a healthier alternative to donuts.

One scone: http://caloriecount.about.com/calories-starbucks-coffee-blueberry-scone-i57011
One doughnut: http://www.peertrainer.com/DFcaloriecounterB.aspx?id=8278

Not better.

You got me! But it's none the less true that food not deep fried is largely perceived as healthier than food that is, ditto frosted vs. unfrosted, which most scones are. I am guessing the only real reason the scone loses here is the density factor--on a calorie-per-ounce basis, the donut has to be worse.

Btw, scones are actually something we rarely saw here in the U.S. before the Starbucks coffeehouse movement came along and created a need for a healthier alternative to donuts.

One scone: http://caloriecount.about.com/calories-starbucks-coffee-blueberry-scone-i57011
One doughnut: http://www.peertrainer.com/DFcaloriecounterB.aspx?id=8278

Not better.

No one I know thinks Starbuck’s scones are healthier than a donut but I guess they still have some less nutritionally savvy people fooled. Most of their muffins are ridiculously bad for you as well. And don't forget those desserts they call coffee drinks. Starbucks certainly did not create a healthier alternative to anything.

Jenise,

The scone actually has more saturated fat and cholesterol than the doughnut. I would not willingly eat either but if I were forced to I guess I would go with the doughnut.

[Jenise]

No one I know thinks Starbuck’s scones are healthier than a donut but I guess they still have some less nutritionally savvy people fooled. Most of their muffins are ridiculously bad for you as well. And don't forget those desserts they call coffee drinks. Starbucks certainly did not create a healthier alternative to anything.

Agreed; they pump a lot of fat into the muffins etc because it improves shelflife. Last year I frequently visited a friend who was in hospice, a time in which sweets were the only food that appealed to him. Soft was better than crunchy owing to his situation, so I'd pick up a slice of the coffee cake/pound cake-like items at a nearby Starbucks to bring on my visits. I was always surprised at how much oil the pound-cake like items leeched into the bag in just a few minutes' time--euw.

Remember: the key is to sell food, not to make perfect food. So, like most manufactured food products, Starbucks will add sugar, fat, whatever it takes to make them sell.

My couple of cents...if you're making your own English muffins as I often do, don't let them sit on top of the refrigerator for two or three days or you will have blue-veined English muffins.