What's Cooking (Take Three!)

When you fall off a wagon you do it authoritatively. (Death by Doritos?)

[Jenise]

I've never seen fresh pea eggplants at markets in the US, but they are for sale online and you can buy the seeds. The ones I use are pickled in brine and are imported in jars from Thailand. I've seen some Thai restaurants substitute fresh peas, which works visually but the flavor and texture are different.

-Paul W.

I have never heard of these either. Made me go do some googling--what an interesting item. AND--you just gave me an idea. Neighbors gave me three Dungeness crabs (already cooked) and I have to use them today or tomorrow latest. I want to do something different and suddenly I can taste a Thai curry--I have fresh lemon grass, coconut milk and those canned mushrooms Thai cooks seem to prefer. Using that Chinese red chile paste I love whose name escapes me at the moment but I know you got some when I raved about it years ago as the primary seasoning, in my head I can taste a panang-style mixture that will be heavenly on rice with stir-fried Napa cabbage.

It is Italian Sausage and Peppers tonight. We have an Italian man here who makes sausage and other delectable goodies from his family recipes, and for this, I chose an Italian sausage with pork, fennel, sea salt, black pepper, garlic, red chili, water, and his special blend of Italian spices. These will be paired with green, red, and gold bell pepper, sweet onions, garlic, tomato paste, diced tomatoes, salt. oregano, dried basil, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. We usually serve over rice or noodles, but tonight I am serving open-faced over toasted and buttered Hoagie Rolls.

Using that Chinese red chile paste I love whose name escapes me at the moment but I know you got some when I raved about it years ago as the primary seasoning, in my head I can taste a panang-style mixture that will be heavenly on rice with stir-fried Napa cabbage.

Would that be Lan Chi chili paste with garlic? It all sounds like a good plan for a Thai-style curry. I'd toss in a couple of kaffir lime leaves, if you have any, and a bit of fish sauce.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

Yes, I keep the lime leaves in the freezer. LOVE THEM. However, a cold crab/tomato/avocado salad is now beckoning.

Last night I made something I haven't had in a long time--Chinese stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce. I cheated a bit and used Lee Kum Kee black bean garlic paste instead of from-scratch fermented black beans.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

Paul, that's a huge favorite with us--though other proteins are good, chicken seems to be the best blank canvas for a black bean sauce. Do you favor white meat here? I do, probably because it's the most traditional on this coast.

Tonight I'm making rack of lamb to serve with that Portugese potato dish from Milk Street that I haven't got around to making yet.

I usually use dark meat. This time around I had some boneless skinless chicken breast left over from when I made Thai red curry, so I used that. The original black bean sauce recipe used pork.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

The original black bean sauce recipe used pork.

-Paul W.

That's why I was specific about west coast Chinese restaurants--I know the protein choices aren't neccessarily universal, but my California experience since childhood is that white meat chicken is the standard for black bean sauce, like white meat in Moo Goo Gai Pan and dark meat with Cashew Chicken, BBQ pork with pea pods (Chow Yuk) and Beef with Tomatoes. Probably wasn't even offered in other variations on menus in my childhood, though could be otherwise these days when it's popular to offer more choices.

Last night the last of the boneless, skinless chicken breasts became pad prik gai bai grapow (Thai stir-fried chicken with chiles and holy basil). Too lazy to mince the chicken so I just left it sliced very thin. That worked out just fine.

-Paul W.

I picked up some shrimp, scallops, and cod today. I'm torn between seafood chowder and a seafood casserole.

[Jenise]

The chowder will reheat better....

In gustatory heaven tonight: I made a ritual summer favorite that I have not had for several years... BLTs.

It's been a bad tomato season but we finally have some heirlooms at the greenmarket. I chose a truly magnificent specimen, bought a fresh sourdough loaf, a small head of romaine, and sizzled some extra-thick Peter Luger bacon. Words fail me.

Bacon, Tomato sandwiches are heaven. I use a thick-cut apple smoked bacon or jalapéno bacon. Toasted bread is a must. Sometimes I mash an avocado and use it instead of mayonnaise. Sometimes it is a multi-grain, thick-cut bread, or sourdough with cheddar and jalapéno. It is all good. We have them at least twice a month when I get a tomato that fills up the piece of bread. The best thing...it is so easy! Where do you source extra-thick Peter Luger bacon? I have not seen that around here.

[Jenise]

In gustatory heaven...a truly magnificent specimen, fresh sourdough loaf, a small head of romaine, and sizzled some extra-thick Peter Luger bacon. Words fail me.

I want what he's having.

I make BLTs as a main meal pretty often. North Country Smokehouse in Claremont, NH makes an uncured, no sugar added, applewood-smoked bacon that is to die for.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

Would you guys believe I didn't have my first BLT until I was about 35? Seriously. They didn't happen at home, and I was never a fan of cold sandwiches such that I investigated. And of course, the mayo part is out. But I love them now! Exactly as Jeff described--good sourdough, good bacon, a good tomato and crisp lettuce. And it's okay if the sourdough was buttered after it was toasted, but that's not a necessity.

I didn't like either raw tomatoes or mayo as a kid--mainly a texture thing--so mom used to make be BLs, bacon and lettuce without tomato and mayo. I later came to like both fresh tomatoes and mayo, and it's great now that I have a good source for top-quality heirloom tomatoes.

-Paul W.

Where do you source extra-thick Peter Luger bacon? I have not seen that around here.

It barely qualifies as sourcing: my local supermarket. (I'll fess up to living in a chi-chi nabe.)

The 12 oz package has 5 slices in it.

Looking online... I didn't pay as much as that.

I make BLTs as a main meal pretty often.

It was a Dad-dinner in my house. Maybe once or twice a year. Of course, back then, he used iceberg lettuce and Wonder bread... my version is better.

Would you guys believe I didn't have my first BLT until I was about 35?

You have the oddest deprivations.

...I was never a fan of cold sandwiches such that I investigated.

The name is not exactly inspirational. It's very modern, in the sense that it's just a list of ingredients but it doesn't really tell you what to expect.

[Jenise]

It barely qualifies as sourcing: my local supermarket. (I'll fess up to living in a chi-chi nabe.)

And, for Karen, Peter Luger is a famed New York steakhouse. Wouldn't expect to see it out here.

[Jenise]

You have the oddest deprivations.

Made me laugh out loud. I do understand why you say that, but on the other hand I wasn't a deprived child unless never ever going to McDonalds even once is deprivation. My great interest in food has a lot to do with the seeds my parents planted; we were exposed to more out-there kind of ethnic stuff, at least by totally-white hometown-of-Richard-Nixon standards, than any other kids in the neighborhood. But bacon never appeared outside of breakfast for whatever reason, and my fear of condiments pushed meat-based sandwiches to the outer limits.

[Jenise]

Oh gosh...5:49 p.m. and I have no idea what I want for dinner!!!!!!