Chicken Stock Question

Some years ago, around 15 I think, I read an article by some celebrity chef about the innovative way he makes chicken stock. The gist of it was, if I recall correctly, put a whole chicken in a covered pot - no water - then place that in a bain marie for a number of hours. I believe he skinned the chicken first, but I can't remember if he called for any aromatics. The bird sweats out plenty of liquid over time, and that's your stock. Although the volume exuded doesn't approach the amount normally produced when one dilutes with water, it is pure, concentrated chicken essence.

I did try it once, shortly after reading the article. I place a whole chicken inside an oval Le Creuset, and place that inside a much larger Le Creuset which held the water bath. The result was indeed excellent, although I recall thinking at the time it was not necessarily a game changer for me. Which may be why I don't remember making it ever again.

I'm curious if anyone else here has heard of, or even tried, this method? And if so, could you jog my memory regarding particulars like the inclusion of aromatics? I purchased several chickens this morning on sale, and for some reason that old article popped into my mind. I thought I'd try it again just for fun. And also because I'm running low on frozen stock, and it's soup season!

Thanks

I have heard of this technique as a way to cook a very flavorful bird, not as a way to extract stock. I recall the recipe used very little in the way of aromatics because the key concern was not to introduce more water: the recipe wanted the bird hot and soaking in only its own juices.

Wonder if I can find it... ah, yes. Cook's Illustrated published it in 2008: https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/4022-french-chicken-in-a-pot
I can't get through the paywall but there are lots of similar recipes out there, just search for "French chicken in a pot". Comme ca: http://www.food.com/recipe/french-chicken-in-a-pot-americas-test-kitchen-349883

I have heard of this technique as a way to cook a very flavorful bird, not as a way to extract stock. I recall the recipe used very little in the way of aromatics because the key concern was not to introduce more water: the recipe wanted the bird hot and soaking in only its own juices.

Wonder if I can find it... ah, yes. Cook's Illustrated published it in 2008: [url]https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/4022-french-chicken-in-a-pot
[/url]
I can't get through the paywall but there are lots of similar recipes out there, just search for "French chicken in a pot". Comme ca: http://www.food.com/recipe/french-chicken-in-a-pot-americas-test-kitchen-349883

Hey Jeff, thanks for that. But I actually already have been making that very recipe for some years (I have the original magazine in my collection). It is a good chicken-in-a-pot recipe, but definitely not what I'm looking for. I appreciate your trying on my behalf, though!

Gave it a shot anyway. Skinned the chicken and stuffed the cavity w/ scallions, star anise, ginger, and white peppercorns. Then into a small Le Creuset, covered, and into a larger enameled cast iron dutch oven. Surrounded it with hot water, and it's simmering away now.

Here's a pic of my setup (just scroll to the bottom, skip the over-long pontification): https://dangerdangerwordpresscom.wordpress.com/2017/01/29/taking-stock/

[Jenise]

So I looked at your post and even responded to one of your responders.

But hey--I don't recall anything about this method. I'll be very interested in the quantity you produce. I would be surprised if you even got 3/4 cup's worth. Would have actually been tempted myself to at least soak the chicken first, hoping that the moisture it absorbed would now carry the chicken's own natural flavors out.

So I looked at your post and even responded to one of your responders.

But hey--I don't recall anything about this method. I'll be very interested in the quantity you produce. I would be surprised if you even got 3/4 cup's worth. Would have actually been tempted myself to at least soak the chicken first, hoping that the moisture it absorbed would now carry the chicken's own natural flavors out.

I saw your reply to Annanotbob there (yes, she's British). Thanks for chiming in.

I just took a peek under the lid, and I have to say I'm surprised at the volume of liquid thrown from the chicken so far. I almost think I should have used a larger inner vessel. I'll toss up a picture of it strained out when I take it off the stove in about an hour so I can see what the actual quantity is.

I'll be very interested in the quantity you produce.

I updated that blog post. The picture of the finished product is at the bottom of the page. Came to almost exactly 3 cups. Delicious, although it's so concentrated that it wouldn't be useful in delicate recipes unless diluted. But that's a minor quibble. Overall, I'm pretty damn impressed.

Have a good night, Jenise!

[Jenise]

Three cups? That's impressive. VERY.

Three cups? That's impressive. VERY.

I know. Surprised me too.

That is surprising!

Seems like a lot of work, though, and you've nothing but complaints about it being too strong. Not sure why you made it.

That is surprising!

Seems like a lot of work, though, and you've nothing but complaints about it being too strong. Not sure why you made it.

I'm married. What else do I have to do all day besides cook and complain?

Lol. It was indeed a lengthy process, but hardly any effort. Just like most stocks. In fact, given the fact that there was only ONE ingredient (in the original version anyway), this took even less effort than the stocks I normally make. And yeah, it was pretty much a stock tsunami when it was done, blowing me away and wreaking havoc on the villagers below. But I also played it up because I like the attention. I'm in the media, you know.

I'm married. What else do I have to do all day besides cook and complain?

Right there with you.

It was indeed a lengthy process....

You had the oven on for 7 hours! I hope, at least, that you used the heat to make some other food at the same time?

And yeah, it was pretty much a stock tsunami when it was done, blowing me away and wreaking havoc on the villagers below.

Wouldn't demi-glace provide a lot of the same oomph?

You had the oven on for 7 hours! I hope, at least, that you used the heat to make some other food at the same time?

Wouldn't demi-glace provide a lot of the same oomph?

1. No oven. Simmered on the stovetop.

2. Demi-glace would provide a lot of the same oomph if I could provide a lot more money. I'd also have to source 30 pounds or so of beef/veal bones, and that's a Flying Dutchman-length journey out here.

I do what I can with what I got

A little over $1/ounce: http://www.dartagnan.com/veal-demi-glace/product/PENDG012-1.html

No stove-top time required.

A little over $1/ounce: http://www.dartagnan.com/veal-demi-glace/product/PENDG012-1.html

No stove-top time required.

It ain't mine.

I'll die on that mountain.

[Jenise]

I bought D'Artagnan's demi once and wasn't the least bit impressed. Didn't have that tack-y, glycerin mouth-feel I associate with the real deal.

[Jenise]

Btw, my "real deal"? Struck out just now trying to find it on You Tube, which was a farfetched idea but hey I'm constantly surprised at what's there, but it came in an episode of Northern Exposure where the blowhard Adam (played by Adam Arkin), went off on a near Shakespearean soliloquy about the making of and eventual texture of a good demi-glace. He expressed it better than anything I've ever heard, and the very next day I set about making it myself based not on a recipe but on what he described.

FWIW, pork bones will get you there, too.

I bought D'Artagnan's demi once and wasn't the least bit impressed. Didn't have that tack-y, glycerin mouth-feel I associate with the real deal.

I've felt that way about a lot of the bases I've tried. I really think that in order to pump out as much volume as a large(ish) scale operation requires, they have to skip what I think is one of the major critical steps: the roux, and subsequent skimming over the course of several hours. Various ones I've tried all taste like straight reductions.

Interesting, I have tried a much touted Demi-glacé, in the jar it was a dense jelly so I had high hopes, but when used as directed it not only lacked complexity it really didn't taste of anything much. Not much better when used at a stronger concentration. Shame as this is a product that really lends itself to volume productio
Re the original post the chicken stock interests me muchly can't resist a reason to play.