What a great restaurant review

By Frank Bruni at NYT. He obviously likes the restaurant but isn't fawning - he points out things that could be better. Still, the review is interesting, informative, very descriptive and evokes a mood and atmosphere that is fun to read. Man, I wish I could write like that.

Review is http://events.nytimes.com/2007/03/07/dining/reviews/07rest.html?pagewanted=1

agree, thanks! btw, what are your fav chitown restaurants? along this same line or similar in french? thanks.