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Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

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Jenise

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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by Jenise » Thu Aug 02, 2007 2:29 pm

Max Hauser wrote:Bill also is very right that "torchon" is the common figure for molded FG in high-end restaurants and food writing in recent years....Anyone writing who wants to know what is meant by a galantine (or its variation, a ballottine) can look that up, as always, in an appropriate reference (like the Larousse Gastronomique which has entire articles on the subject, or even a large general dictionary).


Max, I'm familiar with the term 'torchon' and what it applies to. And FYI I did look up ballottine in Larousse before I used it in reference to the butter. But I used it, as I said, because some well-known chef had used it before me and it seemed to fit where no other word would and did so understanding that a tube of butter is not a ballottine. That's why I used the adjective 'cylindrical' as a qualifier. I have no argument with Bill's correction, I only care that he understand that I knew the difference at the time I used the word.

But--let's talk about 'torchon' briefly. When did that word come into use, if you know? Neither the current nor the 1988 versions of Larousse, both of which I own and refer to often, list it, so it appears to be a new vs. a classic term which you imply somewhat when you say "in recent years". So is it possible that someone who described that method for preparing a foie gras as 'ballottine' is using what was at one time the closest similar, even if not entirely accurate, term available?
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Bill Spohn

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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by Bill Spohn » Thu Aug 02, 2007 2:52 pm

Jenise wrote: But I used it, as I said, because some well-known chef had used it before me and it seemed to fit where no other word would and did so understanding that a tube of butter is not a ballottine. That's why I used the adjective 'cylindrical' as a qualifier.

But--let's talk about 'torchon' briefly. When did that word come into use, if you know? Neither the current nor the 1988 versions of Larousse, both of which I own and refer to often, list it, so it appears to be a new vs. a classic term which you imply somewhat when you say "in recent years". So is it possible that someone who described that method for preparing a foie gras as 'ballottine' is using what was at one time the closest similar, even if not entirely accurate, term available?


Yeah, ya gotta watch out for those non-cylindrical tubes.... :P

But your second point is an interesting one and had I more time (or a client content to pay me to conduct etymological research rather than attending to their legal needs) I'd be interested in knowing the origin of the use of 'torchon' (or the alternative, 'tourchon), derived from thre towel wrapped around the FG.

BTW, there is an entertaining account of this dish at http://www.megnut.com/2006/11/battle-foie-gras
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Max Hauser

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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by Max Hauser » Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:25 pm

Jenise wrote:I have no argument with Bill's correction, I only care that he understand that I knew the difference at the time I used the word.
Gotcha.

Jenise wrote:But--let's talk about 'torchon' briefly. When did that word come into use, if you know? Neither the current nor the 1988 versions of Larousse, both of which I own ...
Good question and I have details. I'd checked the '61 LG (close to the French protoype, which wasn't at hand) before responding on ballottine and that edition also lacks an article on torchon (as does '23 GC, and Saint-Ange, 1927, so we can safely say it was not a big deal in 20th-c. French reference cookbooks). That doesn't imply these books don't use the word in passing. My Cassell's French has (N.B. sp. "torchon," Bill) as ordinary word for a light cloth or dish cloth. I'd assumed it was a professional kitchen term. The wrapping cloth, as traditional in British "pudding," or the sometimes delicious central-European napkin-dumplings (Serviettenknödel), et alii.

The very handy 2000 Scribo Dictionnaire Gastronomique Français-Anglais (which I always carry in the Monde Francophone because it is ultra-compact) supports this. Au torchon ("in cloth"), method of cooking or steeping, as ham or foie gras in brine, tied up in a cloth. (Alt. form à la serviette.) Also idiom Le torchon brûlé: Allusion to domestic strife.

Respectfully submitted. (BS's reply arrived while I was writing.)
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Bill Spohn

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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by Bill Spohn » Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:29 pm

Max Hauser wrote:ultra-compact) supports this. Au torchon ("in cloth"), method of cooking or steeping, as ham or foie gras in brine, tied up in a cloth. (Alt. form à la serviette.)


And presumably the cuisine minceur version, 'Au Kleenex'.....
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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by Bill Spohn » Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:40 pm

PS - Googling torchon has given me a real yearning for a FG hit. Maybe we should have a separate thread for that and the Great Ballotine Controversy!

For instance I came across a torchon variation poaching in milk and honey (don't know whether that reminds me more of Exodus (the Biblical book, not the movie) or the music (that would be Beck, not Herb Alpert, Jenise). Sounded interesting though.
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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by GeoCWeyer » Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:38 pm

Maple butter (maple syrup, unsalted butter) on popovers.

Lurapak the Danish butter people produced a couple of flavored butters, one with herbs and the other with lime and chili peppers. Using unsalted butter I made my own. For the herbed butter I used principally marjorum and thyme, I now make it using Brummel & Brown. We love it on vegetables and corn on the cob.
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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by Jenise » Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:04 pm

Maple butter? OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH. Now there's a thought.

And excuse my ignernz, but what's Brummel and Brown?
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Re: Featured Ingredient: Compound Butters

by GeoCWeyer » Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:01 pm

It is a soft spread substitute made with yogurt. 50% less fat and calories than butter. It also has no cholesterol. Of the alternatives we find it to be the best tasting. I don't cook with it though.
I love the life I live and live the life I love*, and as Mark Twain said, " Always do well it will gratify the few and astonish the rest".

*old blues refrain
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