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Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

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Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Jenise » Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:59 pm

This morning I read a review in the NYT about a new restaurant in New York named Perilla. The review explained that perilla is another name for the leafy herb I know of as shiso.

In my experience, it's fairly uncommon. In restaurant dining, I have only encountered it in Japanese restaurants, and I've only been able to buy it in Asian stores. An annual that I grow in my garden for sushi and salads, this year I served it at our July 4th party with a smoked salmon carpaccio--not one person here had ever seen it before or knew what to do with it (wrap it around the fish).

I remember looking for recipes involving shiso and finding few. Upon learning this new name, I went looking for more thinking under a new name I might find a lot more. First stop: Epicurious. Well, if that'a a barometer, than perilla's even less successful than shiso: two perilla recipes compared to eight shiso. Both perilla recipes were Vietnamese in origin, most of the shiso recipes were Japanese.

Then I checked out Wikipedia. There I found that shiso is also popular, or at least used, in Korean cuisine. It's even turned into a kimchee.

Too bad its not more widely known. It's in the mint family and has a vaguely apple flavor. And yet it's different, as distinct in its own way as cilantro or parsley. It doesn't taste like anything else and nothing else tastes like it. I've been hypnotized by it since my first taste of it all those years ago.

Any other fans here? If so, how do you use it?
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Stuart Yaniger » Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:11 pm

No surprise- I love it. Naturally, it's best in Japanese dishes. This sounds goofy, but you can dip the leaves in tempura batter and deep fry them- it's a nice accent with mixed tempura dishes. I also use it in vegetable rolls, much like the use of mint leaves in Vietnamese spring rolls.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Robert Reynolds » Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:07 pm

I've never heard of it, but sounds like something to try.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Rahsaan » Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:41 am

Stuart Yaniger wrote:This sounds goofy, but you can dip the leaves in tempura batter and deep fry them.


Nothing goofy sounding about that.

Quite common in Japan, as I guess you know, and plus I imagine anything deepfried is likely to meet with approval in the States anyway..
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Rahsaan » Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:44 am

I'm a big fan in Japanese food, and more particularly in Japan, although I have not been bowled over by the specimens tried in the US (admittedly I haven't looked very hard and I am sure good ones exist).

Also, for someone like myself who loves using herbs in relatively-large quantities, I find shiso to be quite strong. Therefore it requires an adjustment in amount and general approach to cooking from my usual use of western herbs.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Jenise » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:15 am

Rahsaan, yes it's strong. But we do we prize any herbs for their mildness? Offhand, I can think of none. Do you actually cook with it? Considering how I cook, it's odd that I've never just put a leaf in a saute pan with a little butter just to find out what that's like, but I haven't.

Stuart, yes I should have guessed that you would love it. I can always count on you to love everything green, as I do. I've had chrysanthemum leaves as tempura, so so not shiso? Otherwise, you basically use them raw, though?
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Rahsaan » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:23 am

Jenise wrote:But we do we prize any herbs for their mildness? Offhand, I can think of none. Do you actually cook with it?


Yes, I guess you are right and mildness is not the primary goal of any herb. And yes, I suppose one of the main uses of shiso is in salads and raw fish combinations.

But I guess since I so rarely make Japanese food in Western kitchens I was probably trying to cram it into a Western dish and never succeeded.

But perhaps I'll rethink things.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by wnissen » Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:10 pm

It's available at the big Asian markets in the area, but like cilantro it is one of those herbs that I can't bring myself to eat a lot of. It's a revalation in the middle of an omakase, shrill and bright, a better palate cleanser than any sorbet.

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Walter Nissen
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Stuart Yaniger » Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:39 pm

Jenise, yes, raw, mostly as an accent in spring rolls (the uncooked rice-paper kind).

The one herb whose mildness is prized is parsley. I can't think of another.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Cynthia Wenslow » Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:40 pm

Stuart Yaniger wrote:The one herb whose mildness is prized is parsley. I can't think of another.


Chives?
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by CMMiller » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:23 pm

Stuart Yaniger wrote:No surprise- I love it. Naturally, it's best in Japanese dishes. This sounds goofy, but you can dip the leaves in tempura batter and deep fry them- it's a nice accent with mixed tempura dishes.


Yum! sounds like a natural addition to the Lulu's classic artichoke/fennel/meyers lemon fritto misto.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Barb Freda » Mon Jul 30, 2007 12:11 am

I used it a lot at my first restaurant job and never again...we spelled it chiso..If I can find my little black book from that job I can find how we used it...I remember its fragrance...Our chef had just come back from Japan and we were doing a lot of fusion cooking (this was 1985 or 86)--we were really making some great food.

b
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Jenise » Mon Jul 30, 2007 1:24 pm

Barb, if you find that, I'd love to hear about it. Thinking about the affinity of this herb for seafood and the fact that my hubby's coming home for lunch, I'm sitting here wondering how it would show in a tuna sandwich....

Stay tuned.
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Re: Do you ever use shiso (aka perilla) leaf?

by Jenise » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:23 pm

Lunch is over! And it was GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD!

Dark rye, Italian tuna in olive oil, a bit of safflower mayo and a lot of diced Walla Walla Sweets, and two shiso leafs: really, really good.

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