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Mark S


Wine guru




Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:28 pm



WTN: New notes (lots of Italians)

by Mark S » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:08 pm

Monteleoso, Toscana IGT, 'Eneo', 2006
Dark, brooding color. Reductive nose upon opening, and one that stays with it most of the evening and even into the next day. Black cherry, other dark fruits, and a bit of asphalt on the nose. This is quite modern, full bodied with a thickish paste of extract. Tannic and structured, a little too thick for me to enjoy. Sweet, with creosote on the finish. 14% B+

Guiddo Porro, Barolo, 'Lazzaairasco', 2005
Porro is aptly named: a poor man's Barolo, as in one a man of limited means can afford to indulge in. There is a slightly browning color here in the glass. Plenty of licorice, plummy light cherry flavors, with only slight tannins. Comes across as a little muddled, but distinctly and refreshingly nebbiolo. Good, but I wouldn't hold out hopes this will live beyond another decade. A-/B+ Around $30.

Roberto Mazzi, Amarone, Punta di Villa', 1997
This producer's wines seem to have vanished from the marketplace; I haven't seen any around for 5-6 years now. A muted nose of hawthorn, plum, licorice root and herbs wafts from the nose. Sweet plums with hoisin sauce, earthy natural root beer extract, sassparilla on the palate. Very full, big and powerful, as a 15.5% alcohol wine would be, but with a lovely, finessed finish. Not overblown at all. A-/A

Broc Cellars, Grenache 'Cassia', California, 2009
Perfumed nose of musky fruits and bush flowers (think Southern spring). Soft strawberry-kirsh-watermelon on the palate, a little gamy even. Delicious in a low-key, natural vibe, house style. A-

Dauvissat, Chablis, 'Sechets', 2005
Clean, clear and transparent, with beautiful lime and oyster shell on the finish. Has lost a little of the ripeness detected in an earlier bottle. Not complicated, just sublime, and that's good enough for me. A-

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