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Here From the Very Start




Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:01 pm

WTN: Some New/Interesting Wines...(long/boring)

by TomHill » Fri Feb 08, 2013 4:32 pm

We tried last night (2/6/13) Some More New Wines:
1. UBY IGP: Cotes de Gascogne (80% Colombard/20% UgniBlanc; 11.5%) Domaine d'Uby/Cazaubon 2012: Pale yellow
almost colorless; strong cat pee/SB-like/pungent/herbal/almost fecal bit grapefruity/floral very aromatic
nose; soft strong herbal/cat-pee/SB-like rather metallic/grapefruity/steely/tangy flavor; med. rather
tangy/grapefruity metallic/steely somewhat herbal/cat-pee finish; a strong/assertive white much like
a NZ SauvBlanc w/ a lot of other weird stuff; strange wine but much more interesting than most wines
at this price. $9.00 (BWM)
2. Campi di Fratta DOC: Pagadebit di Romagna (12.5%;; Soc.Agr.
Celli/Bertinoro 2010
: Light gold color; very light grapefruity/earthy/citrusy/appley/perfumed talc
rather simple nose; soft light grapefruity/earthy/citrusy/perfumed talc bit metallic/tangy rather light/
simple/dull flavor; soft med.long light grapefruity/earthy/fennel/perfumed talc simple finish; a pleasant
enough wine but rather on the dull/unthrilling side. $12.00 (BWM)
3. ClaudioMorelli DOC: Bianchello del Metauro (la vigna delle terrazze; 13%) Fano/Marche 2010: Light gold
color; quite attractive floral/carnations/dandelions light earthy very perfumed/aromatic nose; fairly
tart very attractive floral/carnations/dandelions some spicy/perfumed light earthy flavor; long very
floral/carnations/dandelions rather spicy light earthy finish; a lovely perfumed/aromatic wine that
reminds me a bit of GruVee at a great price. $15.00 (DaV)
4. Feliciana Felugan DOC: Lugana (13%; www.Feliciana.It; Az.Agr.Feliciana/Brescia
: Med.light gold color; some honeyed/mead-like/very ripe bit musky/marigolds light earthy fairly intense
nose; some tart bit honeyed/mead-like/ripe some musky/floral/spicy/pungent/marigolds flavor; fairly long some
tart light honeyed/mead/earthy somewhat musky/floral/marigolds slight spicy finish; a quite rich/ripe/lush
attractive/interesting white at a good price. $15.00 (BWM)
5. Soarda Vespaiolo DOC: Breganze Vespaiolo (13.5%; www.ContraSoarda.It; Vignaioli Contra
Soarda/Bassano del Grappa 2011
: Light gold color; attractive strong/musky/marigolds some honeyed/peach/spicy
slight cheesy/spoiled milk/lactic rather interesting nose; soft rather musky/rich/lush/ripe some honeyed
almost botrytis/peachy some cheesy/spoiled milk fairly dry or off-dry flavor; very long/lingering some
musky/honeyed/spicy/very ripe bit cheesy/spoiled milk finish; quite an unusual and a bit late-harvesty/
honeyed wine but quite attractive & interesting at a very good price. $18.00 (DaV)
6. Vigneti Massa Derthona (100% Timorasso; 14%; Marca Obertenga/Monleale/Piemonte
: color; beautiful floral/aromatic/pineapply/very spicy/guava almost R/GWT-like wonderfully
perfumed nose; somewhat tart very spicy/floral/pineapple/mango/honeysuckle very spicy bit perfumed talc
almost R-like flavor; very long/lingering very spicy/floral/honeysuckle/pineapple/mango/fruit cocktail
some angel food cake pretty dry/rich/lush finish; powerfully aromatic/perfumey and very exotic; not at
all overpriced at $35.00 (DaV)
7. Cuvee Faustine Ajaccio (100% Vermentino; 13%) Jean-Charles Abbatucci/Casalabriva/Corsica 2011: Very pale
yellow conor; rather low-key earthy bit floral slight musky/pungent/piney some stoney/mineral rather
interesting/complex nose; soft/fat/lush spicy/musky/earthy some floral/piney bit stony/mineral flavor;
slight bitey/bitter ripe/lush musky/piney/pungent/floral/earthy some complex finish; a rather low-key/quiet
sort of wine but easily the best Corsican white I've had; bit pricey for what it is at $39.00 (BWM)
8. Manincor MoscatoGiallo DOC: MuscatoGiallo AltoAdige (13%; ConteEnzenberg/Kaltern/Alto
Adige 2007
: Med.dark gold color; beautifully bright/muscatty/floral/hair-oil/orange blossom/cheap perfumed
soap/bergamot very exotic/perfumey nose; dry slightly bitter very perfumed/aromatic/muscatty/cheap perfumed
soap/orange blossom/delicate very exotic flavor; very long/lingering intense/perfumed/orange blossom/apple
blossom/cheap perfumed soap/muscatty dry fairly tart beautiful finish; a very exotic rendition of Muscat
at a very good price. $28.00 (DaV)
9. Ridge Zin PasoRobles BenitoDusiRanch/SLOCnty (14.4%; Bttld: Dec 2011; Drk: 8/11-8/16-8/18: EB) 2010: Dark
color; very strong blackberry/boysenberry/Zin/PR jammy some pencilly/vanilla/oak slight herbal/peppery/
rosemary powerful lovely nose; lightly tart very strong blackberry/boysenberry/PR Zin strong vanilla/
Am.oak flavor w/ modest tannins; long very strong PR/jammy/boysenberry/blackberry/Zin strong Am.oak/
vannila finish w/ light tannins; huge boysenberry fruit but very nice balance & structure. $32.00 (KK)
10. Ridge Zin DusiRanch/PasoRobles/SLOCnty (14.8%; Bttld: Dec 2011; Drk: 8/11-8/18-8/19: EB) 2010: Very dark
color; strong blackberry/boysenberry/Zin less PR/jammy more spicy/classic Zin bit more toasty/oak and less
vanilla somewhat more interesting nose; tarter/leaner rich intense blackberry/boysenberry/Zin/slight
PR jammy more spicy/peppery flavor w/ bit more tannins and structure; long strong blackberry/boysenberry/Zin/
some PR jammy more restrained toasty/smokey/vanilla/Am.oak finish w/ a bit more tannic structure; a bit more
complex/interesting than the regular PR Zin. $32.00 (ATP)
11. Ottimino Zin vonWeidlichVnyd/RRV (14.8%; 6098 btls) Occidental 2002: Dark color w/ no bricking; very spicy
bit herbal/thyme some blackberry/Zin bit toasty/pencilly/oak/BBQ sauce some dusty/OV rather complex nose;
somewhat tart bright/very spicy/blackberry/Zin light pencilly/toasty/oak bit dusty/OV slightly dried out/
tannic rather complex flavor; very long smokey/pungent/pencilly/BBQ sauce/oak some blackberry/Zin/very spicy
slightly tannic/dried out finish; really lovely mature Zin nose but starting to dry out a bit on the palate.
12. Radio-Coteau Zin vonWeidlichVnyd/RRV (15.6%; 265 cs; U/U) EricSussman/Sebastapol 2005: Very dark color w/ no
bricking; very strong blackberry/Zin/very spicy rather pungent/ozone/burning graphite/very strange strong toasty/
charred/oak slight volatile/pickle juice/carnations/garlic some earthy/herbal kinda weird nose; soft slight hot/
alcoholic/volatile/pickle juice/dill strong ripe/blackberry/Zin/herbal rather pencilly/toasty/charred/oak flavor
w/ some tannins; very long ripe/blackberry/Zin/herbal strong toasty/charred/oak bit volatile/pickle juice some
pungent/ozone/graphite/WWII beacon finish w/ some modest tannins; lots of ripe Zin fruit but a bunch of other
strange things in there as wel; seems to be evolving in a very weird way. $34.00
13. VenteuxVnyds PetiteSyrah PasoRobles (14.6%; Templeton 2007: Very dark color; very
strong toasty/charred/oak/vanilla very perfumey blackberry/boysenberry/blueberry/PS slight earthy nose; soft/fat
very strong toasty/charred/oak/vanilla strong blackberry/blueberry/PS bit PR jammy some hot/alcoholic flavor
w/ light tannins; med.long strong blackberry/blueberry/PS strong toasty/charred/burnt/vanilla/oak rather soft/fat
finish w/ light tannins; a bit of PR jammy character and a lot of oak and lacking structure but pretty decent
PS for the price. $25.00
The usual pontifications from TheBloodyPulpit:
1. Pagadebit: This Emilia-Romagna wine is made from a grape technically known as BombinoBianco. The Pagadebit name
comes from "debt payer" because the yields were so high the poor farmers could pay off their debts. The grape
is also widely grown in Puglia. According to RobTebeau's FringeWine Site, some of the Pagadebit grown in Emilia-
Romagna may actually be the much rarer Mostosa grape. Whatever the heck the grape, this wine was singularly
unthrilling. Guess I can throw Pagadebit off my bucket list.
2. Bianchello: This Marche wine comes from a grape variety known as Biancame. Supposedly related to Trebbiano..but
I have my doubts. This wine was far/far better than any Trebbiano I've had. This was an incredibly perfumed
wine that I liked quite a lot.
3. Lugana: This Marche wine does not specifically identify the grape used. Presumably made from Trebbiano di Lugana,
which is not a member of the Trebbiano family, but a grape known as Turbiana or VerdicchioBianco.
4. Vespaiolo: This variety is grown in the Veneto and often gets very ripe and made into dessert or passito wines,
particularly in the Torcolato wine. This is the first dry version I recall tasting. You can sorta see its predeliction
for being a dessert wine.
5. Derthona: This is a variety also known as Timorasso, a variety that was nearly extinct in the '80's until single-
handedly revived by WalterMassa in the CollineTortonesi of the Piedmonte. I was first introduced to this grape
about 10 yrs ago by DarrellCorti and don't remember being particularly impressed. We had the LaColombera some
three yrs ago and I was mightly impressed. This Massa was an even more impressive wine. They should be planting
more of this in the Piedmonte and all up&down the coast of Calif.
6. MoscatoGiallo: Also known a Yellow Muscat or GoldMuskateller in the AltoAdige. JancisRobinson seems to indicate that
this is the same as Fior d'Arancio (Orange Muscat) of the CollioEuganie, but one grapvine nursery site refutes
this claim. This wine certainly resembled other Orange Muscats I've tried.
This wine was very/very exotic and perfumed. Muscats can, like Concord, ofttimes be too much of a good thing and
sorta overpowering, both in the nose & on the palate. This wine was powerfully aromatic but had a bright/gentle/
delicate character that kept it from being overpowering or cloying. When I was little (which was not all that long ago)
and we'd go grocery shopping on payday, my parents would buy bags of the cheapest bath soap at A&P. They had this very
intense cheap perfumey character to them that I loved to smell. This wine rekindled those childhood memories of carrying
in that bag of cheap soap. As NealRosenthal writes in his book: "The finest of wines pave the path to memory". Very true.
7. Ridge Dusi: When I had the Ridge PasoRobles almost a yr ago, I thought it was one of the best Ridge Pasos of late. When
the Ridge Dusi arrived in early Jan; I tried it, fresh off the boat, and thought it was a nice Paso Zin, but just that,
no more. So I decided to pair the two of them in this tasting. This time I somewhat preferred the Ridge Dusi. It was
less PR jammy, displayed more classic Zin spice, and the oak was not as vanilla-ey but more toasty/smokey in character;
those still distinctly PR Zin. Just a bit more interesting and less simple.
8. vonWeidlich: This is a beautiful old-vine vnyd up on Occidental ridge near the GreenVlly AVA. Back in the '70's, Ridge
used to take these grapes to make their legendary Occidental Zin. It was a vnyd I was very sorry to see Ridge give up,
put Paul felts they had so much trouble getting the grapes to ripen that it wasn't worth holding on to. He recounts
the story of driving up there one harvest and seeing RobertWeidlich (the "von" is a self-awarded title) standing there
beside the picking bins and tossing handfuls of C&H onto the grapes.
The vnyd was planted in 1937 and originally owned by the Morelli family. vonWeidlich purchased it in 1969. The grapes
originally went to Radio-Coteau, but Eric no longer gets those grapes. The Ottimino is a cooperation between BradAlper
and BillKnuttle. I believe Brad now does the farming of that vnyd. Deloach also gets vonWeidlich Zin grapes but I've
never tasted that wine. I would love to see some of those grapes go to MikeOfficer and Morgan Twain-Peterson.
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Steve Edmunds


Wine guru




Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:05 am


Berkeley, CA

Re: WTN: Some New/Interesting Wines...(long/boring)

by Steve Edmunds » Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:38 pm

I've been a big fan of Timorasso for a long time; way more than 10 years, though I haven't followed it from the very start. Massa's wine can age 30-40 years, I'm told, and from what I've tasted, i believe it. Derthona is another (maybe antiquated, maybe Piemontese dialect) name for Tortona, which is the place from which the Colli Tortonese derives its name. The wine I was reminded of tasting Massa's was Grand Cru Chablis, along the lines of Dauvissat, but a bit more powerful. Awfully good stuff. Not sure it makes sense on the CA coast, except perhaps in a place like Arroyo Grande. Maybe Sta. Rita Hills? The wine sees no wood, if I'm not mistaken, and yet has remarkable richness, in the most elegant manner.
I don't know just how I'm supposed to play this scene, but I ain't afraid to learn...

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